In which we fret about the first two meanings of the term, it is both an additive and subtractive process. So, in the case of the frames that we didn’t inlet deeply enough, we added material to their faces. On proud surfaces, we used various approaches to removing material until we settled on what worked for us.
As you can see, we are using lumber yard material- standard 2x4s and 4×8 sheets of plywood. This is milled to build square and plumb structures. However, boats have curves and so for the frames to work like stud walls their surfaces need to be beveled to support the fair curve of the sheet goods.
Here Em is using the angle grinder and I the belt sander. I feel frustrated with the angle grinder because it burns through flap discs quickly and those are not cheap. However, it is an aggressive way to remove wood. I struggle to use it with any finesse, and so I put waves into the wood. Although the belt sander is heavy, I prefer it for this task. I can produce better results. I am less patient with handtools, but the surform rasp and a nice sharp plane do short work too. Em did an excellent job on the stem with those tools.
We had another scarf failure with the keelson. As you can see, I corrected it with screws. To fair the keelson I had to pull the screws and when I did, the joint separated about a third of the way down the board. I decided to try PL Premium going forward and bought a case of it. Fixing this scarf was the first test. I squirted a bunch in the scarf and clamped it. Twenty-four hours later, I pulled the clamps off, and we have never looked back, no screws, no separation we are using it to complete the build.
After removing material, we added a bunch back. We used wood flour and epoxy to make a sandable filler. Wood dough is great stuff, and we cleaned up all our sloppy in letting and joints. Em and Patty took the filling to heart and did a great job with it. They shooed me out of the way and took over the task.
Another task that Patty took over and did herself was to cut the limber holes in the frames to allow water to drain between the frames. The second video from Mark Vickers linked a few posts back he describes a good way of doing it, so Patty made it hers.
Here is the jig and half the holes cut.
The final treatment for the frames was a coat of epoxy; this seals the wood and prevents rotting and corrosion of the screws.